Lahaina · Maui, Hawaiʻi
Boat repair, marine fabrication, tanks, docks, and trailers in aluminum, plus 304 and 316 stainless repair. Shop in Lahaina, Maui.
Services
From a cracked transom bracket to a replacement T-top, we work in aluminum every day and know how it behaves in a marine environment.
Cracked welds, corroded plate, stringers, transoms, and chine damage. Cut out the bad metal, replace it with new, and weld it back stronger than the original seam. Familiar with USCG Subchapter T repairs on inspected passenger vessels.
T-tops, hardtops, towers, leaning posts, swim platforms, davits, bow rails, and rod holders. Measured on your boat, built in the shop, fit and finished on the water.
Fuel tanks, fresh-water tanks, live bait wells, and fish boxes in 5052 with baffles, welded fittings, and pressure testing before they leave the shop.
Gangways, dock ladders, ramps, and pier hardware built for our coastal environment, plus aluminum and stainless railings, gates, and stairs for oceanfront homes and condos.
Bow rails, cleats, bow rollers, bimini frames, exhaust, fuel fills, and dock hardware. TIG welded with matching filler, then cleaned and polished so the repair doesn't tea-stain in a season.
Aluminum boat trailers, bunks, cross members, tongue and winch-stand repair, plus truck racks, toolboxes, and equipment that broke somewhere it shouldn't have.
Why aluminum, and why it matters who welds it
Porosity, the wrong filler, and skipped prep are what fail in our coastal environment. We run the alloys and processes the marine industry runs, in aluminum and stainless, and we don't guess.
The standard for boat hulls and anything that lives wet. High strength, excellent corrosion resistance in our coastal environment, and it stays strong after welding. We match new plate to what's already on the boat.
The filler that belongs on 5xxx marine alloys. Higher strength and better corrosion resistance in our coastal environment than general-purpose 4043, which we reserve for 6061 tube and castings where it's the right call.
Molybdenum is what lets 316 resist pitting in our coastal environment, so it's the alloy for anything stainless that lives on the water. 304 is fine above the waterline and on land. Both get matching filler, then cleaned and polished after welding.
TIG for thin gauge, tube, tanks, and anything you'll see. Pulse MIG for heavy plate and long structural seams. Every joint gets a clean stainless brush and a solvent wipe before the arc starts.
How a job goes
Send photos or bring the boat by. For fabrication we template off the actual hull, deck, and hardware.
A written quote with alloy, wall thickness, and finish spelled out. For inspected vessels, the repair is planned to satisfy the USCG inspector. Once approved, plate and tube are ordered or pulled from stock.
Cut, bend, fit, and weld in the shop. Tanks are pressure tested. Structural pieces are dry-fit before final welding.
Install on the boat, dock, or trailer. Brushed, polished, or powder-coat ready. Sealed hardware and isolated fasteners where dissimilar metals meet.
Recent work
Corroded section cut out of the hull, foam cleaned back, and the edges ground to bright metal before new plate goes in.
Hull opened up in the shop, corroded stringers and frames cut out and replaced, then the bottom plate welded back.
New plate TIG welded in after hours, so the boat is back on the water instead of waiting on a shop slot.
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